"This is India!"

This morning, as if the god's had read my blog, I had an egg sandwich for breakfast. I was in heaven and used my imagination to pretend it was complimented with some bacon. The day ahead was planned with more visits with David, and as he was only here for a week every visit was prompt.
As we approach the first village the road either deteriorated too much or had just simply ran out, either way we had to walk the final half mile. It was hot but my clothes were fresh and a breeze kept away the sweat, for now at least. I realise I have already talked about why I am here and I do not want to harp on about why charities need money and why the world is such a bad place, and so on.. but I was moved by what I saw today. I often find if you try and bother people with this type of stuff you are either preaching to the converted or to those few who simply don't care. I hope you just find it interesting.
For water this village had dug them selves a hole, deep enough so that there was water at the bottom and then... and then that was it. That was all they had. The water was beyond undrinkable but they had no other option. The color of the water was a muddy light brown and was full of all types of bacteria. Boiling it would do little to purified it enough to warrant even doing it. They used a flannel whilst pouring it into pots but I doubt this made an significant benefit apart from sieving away small bugs and sticks, the color certainly remained. I learnt something interesting today. This village was below the poverty line, far below it in my opinion, and therefore qualified for relief from the government. However it was a christian village and the ministers, Hindu ministers that have the power, believe that this brings you above the poverty line, hence destroying your chances of getting any funding. What ridiculous and illogical thinking. This village was left alone to cope, something that they didn't seem to be doing very well. There was a small meeting, common when David is around as he tries to sort out what are there most urgent needs and finds solutions to fix them. He does not hesitate when something needs doing, something that I very much admire in him. David suggested that I go have a wonder as the village will be near empty, due to most wanting to have their say, especially the women. It was nice and I was glad I did it, one family quickly started talking to me, despite the obvious communication problem. I ate with them trying some of their peanuts that they grow. My mouth was dry and the peanuts took away any sign of moisture but I carried on gratefully. Despite having nothing in the world, these people are always happy and always so generous. They insist on you having little presents, eating their food and sharing anything they have with you. I am always honored but angered by the fact that many back home have so much more and are reluctant to share. Before we left we had some coconut water which was very refreshing but I wasn't all that sure that I wanted my second. "No I am fine thank you" is not a phrase they know here, in English or Tamil. As we left the village AntonySammy (My adopted Indian father here) said "This is India", not quite in the same way as King Leonidas did, but in a sad and disappointed manner. He was right.
Due to the long car journey this was our only visit in the morning and lunch was the next port of call, we went to a neighboring city. As we walked in there were 4 white people sitting at a table. The first I had seen in just over a week. I understand why the locals do it now and I caught myself starring too for some unknown reason. You do seem very out of place. I don't think they helped themselves by dressing 'exactly' as they Indians do, with sarees and a shirt and dress for the man. I later eavesdropped enough to hear an American accent and I understood a little better. I am getting much more accustomed to the eating, got the whole hand movements worked out a treat, minimal spillages. It does make me wonder why a country with such concerns about hygiene don't believe something as simple as a folk would help. I am yet to get to grips with the drinking however. They pour away from their mouths and gulp as they pour, mouths wide open. I am too much of a coward to try, believing one of two outcomes will occur; I will either choke to death or splutter everywhere, either way I don't come out of the situation well. I am not missing a particular food or flavor very much but I do miss a 'crunch'. Everything is very soft and liquidity, almost like a rice pudding and I am longing for something to actually bite rather than just swallow.
After lunch we visited some schools that were build by WTN. I was greeted every time with the mandatory lemon present (I am building up quite a collection of them now and have considered starting some sort of farm). I was very impressed with the Maths at the school and the younger children were competent in most areas. However I did not like the way English was taught at the school. The children learn from repetition and although they may know sayings, I had the feeling they just learnt from heart and have little understanding of what they are actually saying. A teacher recited the alphabet and some of the letters were unrecognisable, although the children shouted happily along with her in the same manner and pronunciation. I had to hand out some, (I say some, I mean all), the school uniforms that had recently been donated. A child was called up, I handed one over, a quick "thank you sir" from the child and staged photo was taken. It got very repetitive and I kept swapping from "No problem" and "it's OK", and  wasn't too sure what else I could say, I wasn't really the one they should be thanking, (I took the credit nonetheless). I felt a bit like I was signing autographs, it was a strange experience. The children so desperately wanted their photo taken with me, but after the 50th child, my cheek muscles were dying.

I am trying to grown my own "Peter Garrod" beard, but all attempts have ended in a poorly groomed chin strap. I think a shave tonight and a rethink is in order. I have never been in a country where the moustache has been so popular and I am starting to feel the pressure. Might come across as a pretty boy, defiantly not the look you want here.Some strategy on the face is needed, just haven't got the right combination yet.

Have a look at the photos:

Tomorrow the Oliver Riley English school opens BTW. 7.30

Little comment needed

Very sweet girl I met

The ground nuts (peanuts)

David, (Loves the camera)

I'm here all month

Riley's Sabbath

Yesterday was a busy day. One of the co-founders of Wherever the Need, David, arrived and is visiting for a week. Monday was packed full of visits to projects in schools, slums, and pretty much anywhere you could put a mobile toilet. Me and David joked about the immigration problem I had, he said that I was given the right details and that he rechecked his emails. I have not and will take his word for it. I'm here now and as long as they let me go home I really don't care. The visa problem could have been much worse as David was very insistent I get a Tourist visa. Meaning I was not technically, or physically for that matter, allowed to partake in any voluntary or charity work. It was just easier to lie and get the standard visa. However if they looked into this when I was getting interviewed and found things out in their phone calls, the entrance into the empire could have been complicated.
Today has been uneventful to say the least. I finished my first book of the holiday in the morning and have been  releuctant to start my second, and only other book I brought, incase that too gets finished at the same pace. I tired to get some cricket going, im pretty amazing against 8 year olds, but they had lost their only ball. Even Alex Becker's ball skills and hand eye coordination would count for something round here. They are not use to having possessions so things get lost easily, its sad. I will have to buy a carrier bag of them when I am next in town. Prices here are ridiculous. For an example when me and Laura (the new one) took Joseph and his friend out for lunch to say thank you, the whole meal came to less that 4 pounds, including sides, drinks and a 15% tip.
It has been nice to rest for a day, as the weekend was as busy as every other day. I needed it, and it has been worth it despite some teasing. When I asked David for a day off he complained and laughed saying "You come here as a volunteer, want to work and you want a day off! Tut Tut". The other colleagues made jokes and laughed. I said "No David. I'm a tourist" 

P.s I got through to the final round of Apple, so should have an interview waiting for me when I get back. I found out yesterday.

Request for Thomas Turner (It isnt quite lightning but it will do for the moment)

Btw, that was done just using my camera. No Photoshop

No strings attached

This is just a little bit about the charity I am working with and what they do. I am not trying to preach, sell, or ask for any donations. This is just what it is. Simples.

The Charity I am working with are called Wherever the Need, but they work with smaller charities to help their cause. They deal with two main ares. 1. Sanitation and 2. Empowerment. They believe that you can empower people if you give them water, sanitation and a job, and all three are tried to be achieved by the charity.

1. We are all very aware of Tom and his shoes. Every pair you buy Tom will kindly give a child a pair too. Unlike what I previously thought, the purpose of this is not so children have a comfier walk to school. This solution is a quicker, cheaper, and short term way to solve to the problem that WTN is trying to fix. Through out feet we can pick up a lot of disease and even worms. This is absorbed directly though the soles of out feet without you even knowing. Many people in India do not have proper facilities so they urinate and defecate in their back gardens. WTN help to install Ecosans into schools, villages and in some cases homes. There is no need for any water or drainage. There are two chambers in an ecosan, one is always sealed when the other is in use. You do the business, spread a little ash, to absorb moisture, and hopefully wash your hands. I promise you that there is no smell, nothing! This was a concern by many locals before they were installed, there have been 0 complaints. When it is full it is sealed for a year. This is when the best part comes in play. After a year the chamber is broken open and you have better than perfect compost. It is absolutely safe and looks exactly like dirt. Its hard to believe but it smells less, looks better and helps crops more than traditional compost that we buy at Homebase. This then helps families or schools make money or grow better plants. Their shit is literally pulling them out of poverty.

2. Empowerment. I have heard and believed for a while that along with China, India is going to become a huge superpower and take over the world. However Indians do not believe this due to their cast system. They may have over a billion people here but only around 30% of them get a good education and technology due to their class. The poor in this country do not try to better themselves as they feel that that is there place. If they are in the lowest class they accept it and do not ask for anything. The charity works closely with families and women to help them micro finance. They can spent any spare money they have on a Jasmin plant for example. Then next year they could sell some Jasmin and hopefully earn some extra money. Many women are taught how to make fencing or baskets out of banana leaves, and so one. The community is starting to realise that they can do something about the situation they may find themselves in. Teaching is a huge factor here as awareness is so low here. I sat with one man to help him managed his accounts for his fields. It took us 3 hours to learn, understand and use depreciation. I was praying for Josh Harbinson to suddenly walk in so I could hand him over to him. I have also been entrusted with two main projects here, both are scary but in different ways. I will be helping a group of women set up a business selling wrist bands. We will source the materials and employee a sales person. I hope to have a working business by the time I leave but with an incredibly laid back Indian attitude here, speed is impossible. It is confusing to see such frantic and chaotic roads but when they arrive at their destination, nothing happens. I will also, starting tomorrow. Be the English teacher at school. I have no idea how this will go so you will just have to wait and see tomorrow.


Here are some Photos of the projects:

A completed Ecosan at a small (one room) school

Boys... quick pitstop

Ash they use...for the slower stop

Inside

...Outside

The one I worked on

A teaching seminar on how to use them

The women I will be working with

A man making his sting. He makes 50 Rupees a day. (There are 73 to the Pound)

An Ecosan in a slum. These are portable

I hope you find this informative and interesting in terms of how things work here.

Temple Tycoon

I get the weekends off here to do what I like. I planned a trip to Trichy, a reasonably large city with potential. It claims 3 impressive Temples and after my last tip I felt compelled to explore more. The only complication was a 5 hour train that only ran once a day, (06.00). Antonysammy, the head of the family I am with, helped me to make arrangements to stay there and I eventually ended up staying at another family's house. I felt childlike and excited about the train as I had seen so many photos of the trains in India with people strewn all over them, Slumdog millionaire for example. The journey went quickly and I traveled with a friend that I have met here called Laura (If anything happens the transition will be an easy one). We were met by a man called Joseph who would be our host in this city. He was a devout Catholic, like many Indians here, and had hopes of working the Vatican some day. He actually left his family here and for the last 7 years he has been living in Italy. He was very welcoming and a good host but over time I grew to dislike him over certain comments and mannerisms.
The first Temple was an extreme disappointment and was run as more of a business than a religious place of worship. We were still the only white people there but there clearly hundreds of Indians from all over visiting. The Temple had the same impressive gates as the one before but was littered with stands selling tourist junk inside. Something felt so fake about the temple that made me feel angry and cheated. You had to pay to get in, pay if you had a camera, pay to go up a tower, this was all a matter of 10p here 5p there but it was the idea that I was not comfortable with. Please don't let this discourage you from India temples. I still stand by what I said about Nataraja, that was truly a once in a lifetime experience and I think visiting this other temple has confirmed that.
It was at this temple that my dislike for Joseph started to develop, he was a nice man and treated us really well, but we obviously wernt on the same page. I asked him what he thought of the temple bearing in mind he was so convinced of his god. I can appreciate all religions as I see them all equally but the idea that people worship these gods must confuse a man who believes he knows 'the truth'. He said that he was confused as to why the Hindus spend so much in gold and temples when there are so many poor in the street. I could feel the breath of Tom Turner over me, telling me to hold my tongue but I couldn't. I questioned him on the use of money in the Vatican but he dismissed this quickly and I moved on. (Triumpant in my own mind). He continued to explain facts and stories which many would brush off but I did start to get worked up. I asked him how old the temple was and the answer was 1000's of years old. We later found out it was barley over 500, but he did point out on a photo that the artifacts that were old. A cloth dated 1706, "See, 17th Century" he said. "18th" I mumbled, quiet enough for him not to hear me but loud enough he knew I said something. Another moment I refused to nod along to the nonsense was when he was convinced a huge dome was "solid" gold. I was beyond skeptical and when we saw a picture of a close up later on the tour I could resist to comment. It was clear that it wasn't solid gold and after I pointed it out he brushed it aside and said that was what he was told.
Please don't think this man was a bad guy, he really wasn't. He was extremely hospitable, there was just a conflict of cultures and ideas. 
After out tour we had breakfast. I am never hungry in the morning, not even at home, and the sight of another curry breakfast was really starting to get to me. The rest of the day included another temple which was interesting but small and relaxing back at the house. I took an early night as I hadn't had much sleep and knew I was up early. The next morning had potential to be a long one, it succeeded.

What do catholics do on a Sunday morning? Yep sit around until noon talking rubbish. I was now part of Sunday mass. I quickly cursed myself for reading the stories on the wall to quickly and may have coped better if I had rationed some for later. I usually don't know what is going on in these things and in Tamil I was completely lost and bored. I considered bowing my head, shutting my eyes and getting some sleep whilst looking like I was praying, but I refrained.

The journey back was long and cramped but I am back now. The weather is starting to turn and we have had occasional lightning storms. The heat remains.

Photos

Early Morning start (5 hour trip = 30p)

 

 

 The gate to the temple

(bottom right of the cloth = 17th C)

 "Solid Gold" Dome....

Apart from ther signs of plate gold

The unfortunate consumerism

The man in question, Joseph

Ollie Riley and the Temple of DOOOOM!! (Temple of Nataraja)

I am sorry but I havent got any photos to go along with this. Religious services were going on and it just wasnt appropreite. The temple was very sacred and I was slightly uncomfortable as it was. Please Google Images it and maybe read along with some photos. I will try and describe it as best I can.

This was my first visit to a real Hindu temple. Year 8 Neasdon temple trip in north London doesn't count. As you walk up to the temple you are confronted with what you are probably looking at on Google. There are four of these and this is not the temple, it is simply 4 gates into the temple. They are huge and with such incredible detail that you could spend a lifetime looking at just one. Inside this walled temple are small, personal temples, all relating to different gods but all in the honor of the Lord Shiva. The temple is mainly inside and you almost feel as if you are in caves, the hundreds of bats flying freely do add to this feeling a little bit. The whole experience wasn't in the slightest scary, despite being in the evening with little sunlight and dark corridors and passageways. There was lots of chanting and singing and hypocritically I felt that I was in a protected place, little harm could come to me, it felt very safe. I cant find any picture of the inside of the temple but it is beautiful. Many shrines and statues that hundreds of locals go to worship. Brahmins (the highest class in Hinduism) wear white and look after the Temple, but there was a slight aura of arrogance about them, as if they knew they were at the top. They often sat high up in little coves in the walls and looked down on worshipers below. I was accepted at the Temple and for once I wasn't looked at as a complete stranger. People were more focused on the purpose of them being there than the purpose of me being there. It was incredibly interesting but with so much going on and so so many Gods I wasn't completely aware of what was what. Could have done with Michael Damiani's dissertation as a guide book. It goes without saying that this is recommended and I feel privileged that I have seen what I have. This will not be my last visit.

Been there, done that, got a very sweaty t-shirt

Been away for a fair few nights now. Three I think. You do start to lose track of times and days. Went away to visit some projects in very rural areas so had to stay in small villages, this was bittersweet. Here was how it panned out.

 It was a 3 hour car journey from what feels like my home or base now. I stayed the duration at a families home in a small, roadside village. There house was actually very modern, although very India; basic, lots of marble, nothing much actually in the house. The family did not speak a word of English but insisted on talking at length to me in Tamil. This wasn't very productive. Communication wasn't as much as a problem as you may think as I only spent the night at this house and it wasn't hard to work out it was dinner time or bed time as food was laid in front of you and they went to bed in the lounge so went they slept, I slept. The night, especially the first, was difficult. It was extremely hot in the night and my room was open with no glass in the huge window I had, exposing me to the noisy Indian night. This was full of insects, geckos, fighting dogs, and beeping motorists. The first morning was the loneliest and most down point of my trip so far. (This trip also had two of my highest, so no need to worry). In the days we visited schools, by motorbike, with finished Ecosan toilets (all will be explained later) to make sure they were being kept clean and being used properly. I also visited  Toilets that were currently being built due to new investment. My role was to "Curr" or "Cure" the walls, this is as much as I can relay due to communication problems. This was keeping the walls wet so that they did not crack or twist under the heat of the sun. This was extremely hot and exhausting work, now have the knowledge to know what it is like to be in the shoes of Josh Lawon for a day, laboring is tough and sweaty. Lunch times were interesting and I don't mean that in a sarcastic way. I was invited to people homes, mud huts, to eat with their family, which was amazing although concerning as I was not sure if my stomach would match theirs. I think the biggest highlight I have of the trip so far was a nap time. It truly was amazing. I went back to one of the guys home at mid day. We wound through the open countries roads on the motorbike and it just felt so free, no cares in the world. It was actually his mothers house and I was allowed a small sleep inside. The village was picture book India. Cows and chickens roamed the streets and would even wonder peacefully into the houses. There was something so tranquil that I find it hard to put into words.

Here is a Picture of the room I slept in

P.s If you look closely you can see a sleeping woman at the end of the room


The schools I visited were always so glad that I came. In such rural areas white people are never seen and even if they are not fully aware of why you are there, they welcome you like you are a hero. You are often given gifts, I once received a towel and was secretly over the moon as I was running short. The children were always polite and well mannered and would wave whenever they saw you. If you waved back they would shout and get their friends, as if a celebrity had acknowledged them. A few children wanted to touch my skin, just to make sure it wouldn't rub off, it didn't. 

A small outing I got to go on in an afternoon, was to visit the worlds second largest Mangrove forest. (The largest is actually in India, in Bangalore). It consisted of a 2 hour boat ride, rowed by a man on less money a day than out minimum wage per hour, which was peaceful although a little too long to look at trees in my book.

The trip did present its self with picturesque scenes and good opportunities to use a new Birthday gift however.